Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until soft and translucent, about 5–8 minutes. Stir in the anchovies, if using, and cook for another 2 minutes until they melt into the oil.

Add the ground lamb and the chopped fresh tomato. Season again with a little salt and pepper. Break up the meat with a wooden spoon and cook until the lamb starts to brown and sizzle in its own fat, about 8 minutes.

Pour in the white or red wine and stir, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Let it cook for a couple of minutes until the wine reduces slightly.

Stir in the crushed tomatoes. Fill the empty tomato can about three-quarters with water, swirl it to loosen any remaining tomato, and add that to the pot. Season to taste.

Reduce the heat to low and let the sauce simmer gently for 1 ½–2 hours, stirring occasionally. If the sauce thickens too much, add a splash of water (about ¼ cup at a time).

Cook the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain well, then toss the pasta with some of the ragu to coat it beautifully.

Serve the pasta with an extra drizzle of olive oil, a good grind of black pepper, and plenty of freshly grated Parmegiano Reggiano. Scatter over fresh herbs if you like, and enjoy.